E Asia Travel

Posted by Mari Nicholson

It’s called Elephant-Hills.com and as the name implies, it is a trekking company, working in the National Park area of Khao Lak in Southern Thailand. From their base at Khao Sok they organize treks from 1-2 days and 1--4 days in luxury safari tents with attached bathrooms. Pickups can be organized from hotels in Phuket, Krabi and Suran Thani.

Tea and coffee makers are available in the tents for the early risers and for those who want to sit outside and listen to the dawn chorus of birds, the gibbons scolding from tree to tree, and other early morning jungle noises. Breakfast is at leisure before heading off to the elephant camp to meet the “jungle tractors”. Or lie back in your canoe paddled by a local guide, as you glide up a silent river into dense green jungle before emerging to have lunch on a converted Burmese junk moored near a deserted beach. Those who want to explore the smaller creeks and rivers may do so in self-paddle canoes (life-jackets provided).

The owners of Elephant Hills operate a responsible travel policy with regard to the surroundings. Aware that tourism has a direct impact on the community they provide a large percentage of jobs to locals as an alternative to the harsh work on the rubber plantations, formerly the only other available occupation. From Cooks to Bar Staff, Cleaners to Tour Guides and Carpenters to Canoe Paddlers, they are all people from the Khao Sok area, enabling the money to remain in the local community.

Food is bought on a daily basis at various local shops within the area. This means that the profits from these tours eventually filters back into the community.

Check out my article of 21st August 2008 on the company and what they offer.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

The world's eyes have been on China over the last few weeks and we are all now very aware of the impact that the country is having on the global economy. There is a vast and emerging market to be conquered in this part of Asia and although there are many business guides and travel books to China, few have been written by people involved in the business world. Now along comes a Guide for the businessman or woman, written by people from a business background.

The book, which can be used as a guide even for non-businesspeople, is published by Active UK China Publications and calls on writers from both the UK and China as contributors. Suitable for both the first time visitor to China and for the regular visitor, it offers up to date information. And, the editors promise to regularly update the guide.

The overview covers the basics such as geography, climate, natural resources, population and history, as well as a chapter on the Chinese Communist Party, Laws in Chna, Religion and the Current Issues Facing China, but it is the chapters on Understanding the Chinese Psyche and Building a Rapport that are most fascinating, as well as those on Business and Social Etiquette and How to Communicate Effectively. These chapters in particular, are useful to every traveller to China. In fact, a lot of the information could be used for other parts of Asia.

So, if the Olympics have encouraged you to travel to China on business, or as a normal visitor, this little handy-sized book can be slipped into your pocket to ease those awkward moments which can arise. Just something of which one can say, along with insurance, Don't leave home without it.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

After a month of military standoff on the Cambodian-Thai border, it looks as though both countries can breathe a little easier, as both Thailand and Cambodia have commenced to withdraw from the Keo Sikha Kiri Svara Pagoda near the Preah Vihear Temple and the surrounding area of the Cambodian province.

This withdrawal is seen as a bid to ease tensions around the 11th century Kymer-style Hindu temple, escalated after UNESCO listed the temple as World Heritage site. The International Court of Justice in 1962 ruled that the temple belongs to Cambodia, but an area of just under 5 kl. adjacent to the temple remains in dispute between the two countries.

Both sides were reported to have in excess of 1,000 troops stationed on either side of the disputed border, but so far neither side has said how many troops are being withdrawn and this could prove the sticking point. The Thai government is on record as saying that the troop withdrawal should not affect the country’s capability to protect its sovereignty and it is leaving the decision in the hands of the military.

The foreign ministers of the two countries met in Siem Reap late July to try and resolve the dispute and at that time both sides agreed on a de-mining survey programme and a border demarcation by the Joint Boundary Commission. However, Thai troops entering Tamone Toch and Tamone Thom temples on August 3rd last, somewhat aggravated the standoff.

Now another meeting has been called between the two men in the Thai resort of Hua Hin just two hours from Bangkok. Perhaps this royal resort (the king lives there in his summer palace for most of the year) will work its charm on the Foreign Ministers.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

Things are hotting up over the disputed Preah Vihear Temple in the area of the Thai-Cambodian border.

News tonight is that the United Nations Security Council is being asked to adjudicate on the situation as each country rushes troops to the border area. Both countries are sensitive to giving away national treasures or territory, and this is where the United Nations could help.

More cynical onlookers think it is a storm in a teacup to distract local opinion away from disagreeable happenings in the two countries, like inflation and the increased price of oil and gasoline. Cambodians vote in their General Election on July 27th, and Thailand battles with continuing conflict down south where loss of life due to shootings is a daily occurrence between the army and the insurgents. Plus the Thai government has problems with a forceful opposition which holds protest meetings daily in Bangkok.

Cambodian Foreign Minister Hor Namhong has said that he “fears an imminent state of war” and he appealed to the UN to intervene. Meanwhile, Thailand has informed the UN that it prefers to resolve the dispute through bilateral talks.

Cambodian Defense Minister Teah Banh and Thai Supreme Commander General Boonsrang Niempradit met at the Thai border town of Aranyapathet last Monday in a failed attempt to defuse the situation.

The matter may eventually return to the Hague International Court of Justice where the original dispute over the temple’s ownership was settled in 1962 when Thailand’s failure to officially object to the map-making led to them losing the temple.

Meantime, the steep slope on the Cambodia side means that access is still near impossible from that direction, and the gradual slope on the Thai side means that most people have to approach this now famous Hindu temple of Phreah Vihear from Thailand.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

News has just reached me that Thai Foreign Minister Noppadon Pattama has resigned over the affair of the Preah Vihear Hindu Temple. A top court ruled that he had violated the Constitution by signing a deal .

As the temple is built on land disputed by the two countries, the judges ruled that the Foreign Minister should not have backed Cambodia in its petition to have the temple on the Thai-Cambodian border listed as a world heritage site, without first asking parliament.

The Thai people are intensely patriotic and are proud of the fact that as a nation they were never conquered. They will not countenance the sale of national property, seing this as an implicit surrender of sovereignty. Ex-Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra found this out to his cost when he sold off his Shin Corp Telecommunications to Singapore.

Foreign Minister Mr. Noppodon’s appointment was a controversial one as he used to be a lawyer for the former Prime Minister Thaksin, ousted in a military coup in 2006. His support for the UNESCO listing (see blog of July 9th) sparked a wave of nationalist anger which grew with the announcement by the Constitutional Court that he had erred in his decision.

He announced that he was stepping down on national television, insisting that he had done nothing wrong. He fought back the tears as he told the viewers he had not sold out his country. “I love Thailand” he said, “and I would not cause any damage to the country”.

The 900-year old Hindu temple has been the subject of a border dispute between Thailand and Cambodia for decades. In 1962 the Internatioanl Court of Justice ruled that it belonged to Cambodia and ever since it has been at the centre of a bitter dispute between the neighbouring countries.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

There has been controversy recently in both Thailand and Cambodia around the 11th century Hindu Preah Vihear Temple complex on the Thai-Cambodian border under consideration for a UNESCO listing. The Thai government had pressed for a delay as it wanted to apply for a joint nomination of the site, but following the World Heritage Committee meeting in Quebec City, the Temple complex was added to the Unesco list.

Despite being legally in Cambodian territory, the 1,000 year-old Preah Vihear site is only accessible from Thailand. The Thais feel miffed that Cambodia was named as the owners of the site and Cambodia fears that Thailand may mobilize a rally against them. To forestall trouble, Cambodia has closed the border area around the temple and no tourists are allowed until further notice. Tough luck on the one legged Vietnam veteran (Uncle Wan) who used to play his violin there for the tourists, his only source of income.

Resentment among people in both countries has heightened, and as “losing face” is something no Asian country likes to do, problems – and troubles – may arise from this UNESCO listing.

A boundary line that is not clear is the crux of the problem and this is caused by past, unsettled border demarcation.

In Hoi An, Vietnam’s UNESCO World Heritage listed town. karaoke bars and nightclubs have now been banned as part of Vietnam's drive to improve conditions and manage trade in this ancient and beautiful town. Most heavy industry has also been banned and future development will be based on arts activities, museums and the souvenir trade.

In Malaysia, Unesco has granted approved status to "the historic cities of the Straits of Malacca”, Malacca and Georgetown. The two cities have been key trading ports for over 500 years.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

Hampton Court Flower Show July 7th – 13th.

Less than one week to go now before the Hampton Court Flower Show opens when visitors to the royal gardens and parklands will have a chance to see a traditional Thai floating market. Created by Tourism Authority of Thailand, the market will have 15 genuine Thai paddle boats on the Long Waters filled with such products as herbs, spices, flowers and vegetables – all shipped especially from Thailand.

A beautiful teak-decked area will entice visitors to the water’s edge to shop, Thai style, from the Thai vendors who will pull up in their boats to sell fresh fruit and vegetables, snacks, plates of rice, and handicrafts, backed by Thai music.

Battersea Thai Food Festival on Sunday 27th July next from 10.00 – 19.00.If that whets your appetite for all things Thai, then don’t miss the food event at Battersea. This offers samples of Thailand’s cuisine, arts and culture, and Thai restaurants will showcase traditional Thai dishes prepared on the spot by Thai chefs, stir-fries, curries, mouth-watering dishes like Papaya Salad and Pad Thai Gai, plus a range of smoothies made from exotic Thai fruits. A wide range of dishes will be available to taste.

Nor have liquid accompaniments been forgotten and an authentic range of Thai beers and wines will be available to enjoy. There will be demonstrations of Thai handicraft and fruit carving, displays of dramatic martial arts – swordplay and boxing, and it promises to be an exceptionally enjoyable day.

Come along and meet some of the folk from TAT who will be on hand to answer any questions you may have. Thr event is sponsored by Thai Airways, Siam Winery and Singha Beer and organized by the Anglo-Thai Society..

Venue: British Genius Site (Battersea Park), enter via Chelsea Gate, London SW11 4NJ

Posted by Mari Nicholson

Brunei is a place often overlooked when thinking of a place in Asia that is somewhat different, but it has a lot to offer and it is a well run, clean and safe country. Car hire and chauffeur-driven cars are available, taxis are metered, buses run regularly and are low-cost, ferries link Brunei with other parts of Malaysia and airlines link all major cities.

There are only a few do's and don's to remember, to make your holiday go with a swing - or at least to make sure you don't offend anyone. Follow the advice below and your stay will be memorable in this very friendly country.

Do's and Don'ts

Bruneians are very tolerant and know that visitors are not always familiar with Islamic traditions. Nevertheless, visitors should keep some things in mind if they are to avoid upsetting the locals.

1. Observe the local dress code and dress modestly.

2. Do not shake hands with members of the opposite sex.

3. When you do shake hands, do so by lightly touching the hands and then bringing the hand to the chest.

4. Never point with your finger, but you can use the thumb of your right hand with the four fingers folded beneath it.

5. If female, always ask permission before entering a mosque.

6. Women should make sure to cover their heads when visiting a mosque and make sure that their knees and arms are not exposed.

7. When visiting a mosque, remove shoes. .

8 Never pass in front of a person in prayer, and never touch the Koran.

9. Gifts (particularly food) should only be passed with the right hand.

10. It is polite to accept even just a little food and drink when offered.

11. It is inconsiderate to eat or drink in the presence of a Muslim during the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan.

See Brunei Tourism

Posted by Mari Nicholson

During the last year I have written articles on Bangkok's markets but people still write and ask me which one is my favourite. Without doubt, it has to be Chatachuak, the biggest, noisiest, saddest and best. Sad because of the puppies and monkeys huddled in small cages awaiting a buyer. It is illegal to have monkeys for sale but ...

Then there are the tiny caged birds singing their hearts out. People buy these so that they can release them to gain merit. What happens to the person who catches and re-cages them isn't talked about!

MBK near the National Stadium, is my second favourite. Here I buy lots of cotton clothes for wearing while in Thailand - cool, well made and cheap. We're talking £3 ($6) for a cotton shirt with gold embroidery, ditto for cotton pants in black or white, silk garments and lenghts of silk from China, batik wraps and shirts, football strips, cameras, cell 'phones, compute software, digital cameras, shoes, bags, sweaters, jewellry, make-up and perfume - a lot of it fake.

Chinatown has its share of market stalls, and night-time Chinatown is a place of magic, with neon lighting up the sky, the smell of food intensifying the excitement, little children playing around the stalls, and old men and women sitting placidly smoking pipes outside their restaurants.

Patpong, two streets that house the girlie-bars and transexual shows, is the heart of the red light district of Bangkok, yet it has a brilliant night market. You can pop into the bars for a look, see a show, have a drink, and then come out and do your shopping - the market stalls are usually there until about 3 a.m., sometimes later.

When you are in Bangkok, go visit a market. You'll find whatever you want there.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

It's impossible to get a good paella outside Spain. In fact, even in Spain it can be hard to find a good paella outside the province of Valencia, the home of the famous rice dish coloured with saffron and chock full of prawns, rabbit, and chicken.

The best paella I've ever had was one cooked al fresco on a fire made from rosemary twigs, the smoky aroma from which drifted into the open pan and flavoured the dish. Of course, it may have tasted exceptionally good as it was accompanied by delicious Valencian red wine.

Now, Londoners and visitors to London will have a chance to sample the real thing when a posse of Valencian chefs come to Borough Market in London, on Thursday 5th June, to cook paella in a three metre diameter pan, over a wood fire. This is part of the Taste of Spain Festival in the Green Market area of Borough Market.

Last year they served more than 1000 visitors. This year's there should be more. The paella will use more than 60 kilos of rice, 75 kilos of chicken, and 50 kilos of vegetables and preparations will begin at 4 p.m. for those who want to watch and learn how to cook the perfect paella. From 6 p.m. everyone is welcome to roll up and try it for free. Be sure to get there early to beat the queues.

And it's not only paella that's on offer. There will be typical products from the Valencia Region, wines and sausages from Requena, tiger nut milk (the famous horchata, a mix of water, sugar and ground tiger nuts also known as earth almonds) , plus the delicious Christmas nougat, turron. There will also be food and drink from other parts of Spain. Not to be missed.