E Asia Travel

Posted by Mari Nicholson

On a discussion panel recently to talk about travel writing, the talk turned to favourite travel guides.

I have my favourites, like everyone else, but over the years I have found that the best way to come to grips with an area is to read a good novel set around the places to be visited. More often than not, these are crime novels, as crime lends itself to in-depth writing about cities and towns, to an exploration of the side streets, the outlying districts, and the politics that underlie the character of the place, .

Read any of the crime capers of Carl Hiassen and you are instantly submerged in the crazy world of Florida. Take James Lee Burke and you'll learn things about Louisianna that aren't in a guide book. Delve into Elmore Leonard, James Patterson, Robert Crais, Tennessee Williams – the linsight gained is endless.

In England, my favourite crime writer is Graham Hurley. Hurley's stories are mostly set in Portsmouth and cover everything from bird-watching along the coast to the marinas in the area, the mean streets of the old town and the new developments that are springing up along the waterfront, to Portsmouth Football Club and its place in the city.

What Hurley shares with all good crime writers is a compassion for his “losers”, an understanding of why they have arrived at a stage in life that has left them with little or no options. His D.I. Faraday and his team of detectives are three dimensional characters with failings we can all sympathise with as they battle to keep the street clean and their political bosses happy.

Anyone planning on visiting Portsmouth should read Graham Hurley. His 7th crime novem featuring D.I. Joe Faraday is out now in paperback (Orion). It's a cracking good read.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

My enforced stay in Thailand this year has made me more aware of my own climate's benefits. For years I'd been trying to make time to spend a week in Bangkok to catch up on what's new, but this year I had the time but not the inclination. For starters, the heat was intense. Temperatures of nearly 40 degrees with high humidity do not make for pleasant sightseeing or photography.

I found the best, and cheapest, way of getting around was the Express Boat on the Chao Phraya River. I'd take the SkyTrain from Silom down to Central Pier (next to the famous Oriental Hotel) and catch the Express from there to the famous sites. This way I managed to spend whole mornings at Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn), the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Chinatown. Other days I just disembarked at interesting looking piers and wandered the streets, discovering fascinating stalls selling things like false teeth (you needed to try them before buying!), wooden legs and other oddities.

The skytrain fares are maximum 30 Baht (.48p or $1 approx.), the Express Boat costs between 25 bht. per trip (.40p. or $0.80) per trip, and with entrace to the temples and Palace never more than £2. 50 or $5, sightseeing was very inexpensive. And it left enough for a G. & T. in the Oriental after the sightseeing!

If you are planning a trip to Bangkok in the near future, do think about the Express Boat. Forget expensive tours, forget taxis, just get yourself down to Central Pier and take it from there. Pick up a map at the skytrain ticket office, or get a river map from your hotel. You won't regret it.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

Detained in Bangkok due to the unexpected and severe illness of a family member, I am living in The Bangkok Nursing Home in an adjoining room to the patient. This is a superb hospital with a standard of health care way above average. The story may be somewhat different in other parts of the country, but anyone feeling nervous about having treatment in Bangkok, need fear not. The health care here is truly state of the art.

My main trouble is the boredom of being here day after day. I can leave for short trips outside the hospital, but walking in Bangkok's suffocating heat and humidity is not easy. Unfortunately, I cannot be absent in the morning when it is cooler, as that is the time the doctors visit to discuss the case.

I felt much in need of pampering and being made a fuss of, and as more than one person in Bangkok had recommended a new garden spa to me recently, I decided to pay it a visit two days ago.

Today I feel rejuvenated. The big hotel spas which I usually frequent have always pleased me, but having tried this smaller, intimate and very professionally run Spa I am now sold on the concept. Certainly, an owner-run spa like Leyana Spa & Garden wins hands down over even the most sophisticated spa run by trained staff.

The range of treatments may be smaller than that offered in the big hotels, but each and every one is geared to the client, and the selection of oils and scrubs is enough to satisfy even the most demanding client.

Something good came out of this illness. I've found a new spa about which I'll be writing shortly - after a few more treatments.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

The Bangkok Post last week issued a warning to tourists about falling for the gem scammers. Scammers operate by pretending to be a waiter from the victim's hotel, a friendly off-duty policeman, a schoolteacher, or a student wishing to practice a foreign language. The casual opening “Where do you come from”, tells the scammer all he needs to know

Before long he/she is recommending a temple or palace which “hardly any tourists know about”, I know “the real Bangkok” he will say. Around this point another local may appear and join in the conversation, backing up the first local's recommendation and further recommending a souveneir shop (almost always a jewellry shop).

Sometimes the jewellry shop will be called a Government Export Centre in the last few days of a gigantic sale of rubies and sapphires. Soon visitor and the scammers are on the way to the shop. The discounts are massive, the savings are enormous, anyone would be a fool to turn down such an offer, especially when a certificate of authenticity is provided with each item of jewellry bought.

One important thing to remember when in Thailand. There is no comeback when you've bought these goods. They are usually genuine gems but they are not worth the money you have paid for them. The mark up is astronomical but high profits are not against the law. Everyone is entitled to make a profit on his goods, it's up to the buyer to watch that he/she doesn't pay too much.

Greed operates on both sides of the deal. The seller is greedy for profit and the customer is greedy for something (s)he thinks is worth a lot more than the shop is selling it for. Remember, if something seems too good to be true, it probably is.

In Bangkok, the motto should be Caveat Emptor.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

The Phang Nga Bay Regatta is now in its 11th year and this year promises to be even greater fun for those taking part. The fleet sails a different course each day, taking them through some of the most spectacular scenery in Asia. They cruise from Phuket to Phang Nga through the stunning islands that rise out of the sea, on to Krabi, the Phi Phi Islands and back to Phuket.

Regatta Parties

The parties are a tradition of the regatta, and hotel parties are mixed with beach parties (plus a few smaller, intimate, parties held on the boats, no doubt).

Registration and PrizesRegistration and the opening party will take place on February 6th at the Chandara Resort & Spa on Phuket's East Coast. The regatta will then sail through the bay before ending at the Royal Phuket Yacht Club on Nai Harn Beach on February 10th, where the final party will be held.

Prizes are distributed at the eventing party at the end of each race day, February 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th.

What boats?

Most of this year's entries are local yachts, many of them the Phuket made and designed Firefly catamarans which are known as "the Formula One boats of Asia". The Bangkok Post reports that Sunsail, the biggest yacht charter company in the world, has rented out seven of its yachts to competitors in this year's regatta.

All in all, it promises to live up to its reputation for fun, frolics and fast racing in the sun.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

English Heritage at Walmar Castle, Kent, UK.

Just a week ago I was swanning around the gardens of Walmar Castle in Kent with my family. We'd booked the apartment in the grounds of Walmar castle, having earlier sampled English Heritage's cottage in the grounds of Osborne House, Queen Victoria's former resdidence on the Isle of Wight. I'd polished up my tiara in preparation and dug out the floaty frock in preparation for perambulations among the autumn flowers, but there was so much to see in the area after we'd "done" the Castle, that we left the garden walks until the daily vistors had all departed. Perfect for anyone who loves space or maybe lives in the city.

Furnishing at English Heritage's Self-Catering Cottages:

The furnishings are subtle, elegant and in keeping with the surroundings, cream linens and gorgeous cosy, white duvets. The kitchens contain just about everything a family could want, of a superb quality and style, microwave, cooker, washing machine, dishwasher, fridge/feezer and the porcelain (I can't call it mere china) is Jasper Conran for Wedgewood! And, a hamper of goodies to see you over the first night and morning is there to welcome you.

Dover Castle, Deal Castle, White Cliffs of Dover, Near Walmar Castle, Kent, UK:

Within walking distance of Walmar Castle is Deal Castle, and a short drive away is Dover Castle, perched high on the White Cliffs of Dover, where six people can be accommodated in the house available in the grounds. Whether walking through the wartime tunnels or the medieval tunnels deep inside Dover Castle, exploring the Castle itself, or taking a bracing walk along the white cliffs of Dover, it's a perfect spot.

Watch for my reports on Walmar Castle, Dover Castle and Osborne House which will be posted soon

Posted by Mari Nicholson

For years the Paduang tribeswomen have been a major lure for foreign tourists, who, by their purchases and contributions to their welfare, have helped provide a modest income for these refugee women and their families.

Boycott?

Yesterday, however, the United Nations made a dramatic intervention, when they made allegations that the women are being exploited.

Furthermore, the United Nations refugee agency (UNHCR) reports that for the past two years, the Thai authorities have refused to allow a group of 20 long-necks to leave the country, and this despite firm offers to resettle them in Finland and New Zealand.

Along with the allegations is the suspicion that the women are being kept in Thailand because of the central role they play in the local tourism industry.

Many people who have visited the area would call this an unfair view of the situation. Years ago these long-necks left Burma in a bid to find a safe haven. Thailand offered that, albeit with reservations, and if they have not got complete freedom of movement, they have at least attained a much better life than they had in Burma.

Life in New Zealand - better or not?

The long-necks have been told that life in New Zealand will be more pleasant, living as free spirits. My own feeling is that as long as these people continue to wear the brass rings round their necks (and they mostly want to do this), they will continue to be a sight for people to look at.

Apparently, a few of the women are considering removing the rings which for years they had been told was impossible. It used to be thought that removing the rings would cause the neck to break.

The case is still out. One can only hope that the women are being advised well.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

Now that Christmas and New Year are over, it's time for the Chinese New Year and Valentine's Day parties, when cities and resort areas will have wall to wall celebrations. I'd like to be in Chinatown Bangkok, for the Chinese New Year - lots of noise, firecrackers and red and gold decorations.

For a Valentine's treat I keep dropping hints that I'd like the package at the award winning Lebua at State Tower in Bangkok, where they promise to pamper me with pure luxury in a 66 sq.m. river view balcony suite over a 3-day stay.

Day 1 brings a bottle of Krug Grande Cuvee or Dom Perignon, served with fresh strawberries, plus romantic dinner for two (Chablis Vaudesir Grand Cru 2004 to accompany my own menu chosen in consultation with the chef).

Day 2 offers Champagne breakfast (Laurent Perrier Rose) on a boat at the break of dawn! After which we can wind down on a Klong tour, or maybe take advantage of the spa priviledge in our suite.

Day 3, breakfast in bed with Laurent Perrier Rose Champagne and Petrossian caviar. A sight-seeing tour with a picnic basket or a cooking class with the chef (no contest for me, I want to know exactly how Sirocco produces such fantastic food) and then evening cocktails at Breeze.

I just know this sort of luxury life-style is for me!

If I feel like foregoing the parties and the inevitable hangovers, then a 4-day stay at the prestigious Chiva Som Spa Resort would be the next best thing. The pampering at Chiva Som is wholesale but the alcohol content is virtually nil!

At any rate, I'm hoping my partner will read this blog and act on it - if not for Valentine's day, then another time. It's an offer too good to miss!

www.lebua.com for reservations.

www.chiva.som.com

Posted by Mari Nicholson

As Thailand mourns the death of Princess Galyanai Vadhana, the revered King’s sister, hundreds of parties and celebrations planned for the New Year have been cancelled. Most hotel operators have fallen in with the mood of the country and events already booked have been rescheduled for later in the year - after the required 100 days mourning.

Most of these events were postponed New Year parties for groups and small organizations that couldn’t make a booking near to the actual New Year, annual Thank You parties, company staff parties and friendly get-togethers for personal celebrations.

International meetings and business conferences will still be allowed, as the hotel operators and the authorities recognise that these events cannot always be re-scheduled.

Marriott, Hilton, Dusit Thani, Centara, Banyan Tree Hotels affected

Most of the major hotels, including Marriott, Hilton, Centara, Dusit Thani and Banyan Tree, have reported cancelled bookings of between 600-1000 people but confirm that business functions are still going ahead and that the other events can be re-scheduled.

Meantime, business people and all civil servants in Bangkok have heeded the Court and the Government's request that dark colours be worn for 15 days. Stores and shops have been quick to rush to the fore new suits, shirts, blouses, skirts and even sarongs, and the city has taken on a sombre look.

It is to the credit of the Thai traders that prices have not risen due to this rush for black attire, as it seems to be felt that to profit from the death of a beloved Princess would be less than fair. To the tourist, the change from the normally exotic shirts favoured by many of the young people to the serious black shirt and slacks or blouse and skirt, seems strange, but to the Thais, ever respectful of their royal family, it is normal.

Posted by Mari Nicholson

In 2007, the number of tourists visiting Cambodia topped the 2 million mark, a 20% rise on the previous year. However, without the World Heritage listed ruins of Angkor Wat, it is doubtful if this increase could have been accomplished, as the Sars panic of 2003 plus the anti-Thai riots in Phnom Penh a few years ago frightened many visitors away.

The famed temples of Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, are the big money-spinners in Cambodia today, thanks to improved facilities for tourists. New up-market hotels and restaurants, a cleaned up town and a local market, all now serve to make this an attractive destination in its own right.

Tourism is seen as one of the main sources of foreign exchange for the cash-strapped country.Up-scale resorts are in the process of being built, and others planned, on Cambodia's southern coast which, up until now, has been the haunt of budget conscious travellers. The government is keen to develope eco-tourism in this area and they believe that a better infrastructure and upscale resorts will tempt tourists to visit and linger.

A boost for tourism comes from no less a source than the Conde Nast-owned website, Epicurious, which opines that Cambodian food is set for popularity. Certainly, the French influence gives them a head-start when it comes to satisfying European and American tastes, their wines are kept in perfect condition, something they share with Vietnam but which Thailand neglects to its cost, and they make wonderful bread!

China has indicatied that it may open some factories there, and computer firm Quanta, is currently assessing locations in the area for a factory.

Cambodia has long been mired in poverty, and the civil strife so well documented in the film The Killing Fields, has cast a long shadow over the country for many years. Perhaps that will now end.