Chiang Rai, Thailand's Northern Gem
The Lesser Known City where Tourism is Now Flourishing
Oct 2, 2008
Chiang Rai hasn’t got the slick presentation of big sister Chiang Mai, 180 Kl. to the south. It is a pleasing rustic town with few cars, fewer traffic lights, wide, clean streets and few skyscrapers. The town, in the heart of the slow-paced province of the same name, is the centre of commerce, and the temple and spirit houses are the hub of the community, as they have been for centuries.
The Essence of Chiang Rai
This part of Thailand attracts fewer long term visitors than the better known Chiang Mai, yet it is arguably Thailand’s most undervalued region. A province of rivers, mountains and hills that form one continuous rippling green chain across northern Thailand’s border with Laos and Burma, it is a useful base from which to venture into the Golden Triangle on the Mekong river.
The essence of Chiang Rai is its breathtaking scenery, understated and soft hued, like a Chinese brush painting. Towering mountains and craggy limestone peaks loom out of early morning mists, elephants haul teak on river banks, and families drift up and down the rivers on their bamboo rafts which is the family's boat, house and work-station.
Why Visit Chiang Rai
Most people come here to visit the hill tribes, the Lisu, Akha, Karen and Yao who migrated here from various parts of China and Burma, and who live in settlements of thatched huts in the mountains. They ignore borders, cheerfully crossing and re-crossing between Thailand and Burma, and occasionally returning to their old home in China. Exposure to outside influences has altered the lives of the hill-tribes a lot, many of whom sell souveneirs and all of whom now expect payment for being photographed.
Elephant Trekking in the Area.
A 40 minute boat ride up the Maekok river to the village of Rammit where there is a tribe of Karen is a good day out. Because of the dense jungle that surrounds the town, the elephant is the only animal capable of working here, and the Karen have become excellent elephant trainers and handlers. A good time to arrive is midday when the elephants turn the river into their playground and bathtub.
Mai Salong, Village of 93rd Division of the Kuomintang
The village of Doi Mae Salong, founded over 60 years ago, is one winding road lined with roses and poinsettias. Wooden one-story shop houses on either side sell food, sweets (bite carefully into the most appealing looking, some are positively foul) and Chinese medicines. Locals come here for snakes bottled in brandy, spiders in oil, and scorpions in wide-mouthed jars. but the resultant good feeling comes more from the added alcohol. The descendents of the former blood-thirsty soldiers of the 93rd division of the Kuomintang now tend tea and coffee plantations, and orchard and vegetable gardens.
Christian Churches in Chiang Rai
High on a hill overlooking the village temple at Doi Mae Salong, are small Christian churches for the many hill tribes (Akha and Lahu who are Christian). They call themselves Christian but ancestor altars dominate the village and animism still rules daily life. At the entrance to most villages is found a frame through which the villagers walk to cleanse themselves when they go to work and again when they come back. Visitors should take care not to walk through this.
Mai Sai, Border Town with Burma
A fascinating town with a permanent market in the main street. Smuggled rubies and jade are offered but are usually fake so don’t be tempted. A day trip across the border can be made but Passports must be deposited with the Burmese border police before so doing.
Where to Stay
In Chiang Rai are many hotels, the best being the 5* Dusit Island Hotel which is situated on the river, commanding magnificent views over the surrounding countryside. In Doi Mae Salong are small hotels and inexpensive guesthouses can be found where the owners can arrange for rental of horses and mules as well as local guides.
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